- Owner/Loaner: ENTS
- Make/Model: Craftex B2227L
- Usability: Works
- Contact: Raphael B.
- Where: Metalworking bay (Garage)
- Certification Needed: Yes
- Hackable: No
- Estimated Value: $1300
Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V, 8.8 Amps
Twin Belt Drives to 6 Speed (115 - 1626 RPM) Gearbox
18" Between Centers
Swing Over Bed: 10"
Swing Over Cross Slide: 5"
1" Spindle Bore
MT4 Spindle Taper
Number of Inch Threads: 20
Inch Thread: 8 - 56 TPI
Number of Metric Threads: 9
Metric Thread: 0.5 - 3.0 mm
Lead Screw: 7 TPI
Longitudinal Feed: 0.0025" - 0.005" per revolution
Tail Stock: MT2, 2" quill travel
Cross Slide: 4-1/2" Travel
Maximum Tool Size: 9/16"
Compound: 1" Travel
Max. Longitudinal Travel of Tool Slide: 2.75"
3-jaw self-centering chuck
Right hand / Left hand / Center indexable carbide turning tools
Boring bar, indexable carbide
Parting blade, 3/32" x 1/2" HSS
Tailstock drill chuck, 1/2" capacity
MT2 dead center for tailstock
MT4 dead center for spindle
Center drills #3, #4, #5
Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60
Quick-change tool post
4-jaw independent chuck with adapter
Letter drills A-Z
Spindle speed: Be mindful of what spindle speed the gearbox is set to. Different diameters and materials require different spindle speeds. Consult your Machinist's Handbook, the internet, or the handy (but woefully incomplete) chart on the wall behind the lathe for appropriate spindle speeds. For example, brass and aluminum can be turned much faster than steel or cast iron.
1. NEVER leave the key in the chuck. Never. Not even for one second. Never never never.
2. Do not pick up chips unless you are absolutely 100% certain they have cooled. Once they have cooled, let them cool some more. Even then, it is better to simply push them off with a brush or pick up the long stringy ones with a pair of pliers. Further, this should never be done with the machine running; long chips could snag on the part or chuck and start whipping around.
3. Parts should never protrude from the chuck jaws more than 3 times the diameter of the part without being supported by a dead or live center in the tailstock, or a steady rest (that we do not have yet). Parts shorter than their diameter should ideally be at least halfway in the chuck.
4. Disengage the feedscrew transmission when not using it.
5. Long, thin parts that extend out the back of the headstock should be sheathed inside a very loose-fitting fixed tube to prevent them from whipping around and bending over, essentially becoming a weedwhacker on steroids.
6. Regularly check that the chuck is firmly affixed to the spindle nose. There is a short allen key in the lathe tool box that will fit between the spindle nose and gearbox.
7a. When polishing with abrasive paper/strips, never let it wrap more than halfway around the part. It can snag on itself and pull your fingers into the part.
7b. If polishing the inside diameter, never never never insert your finger in the hole. Wrap the abrasive around a small wood or plastic dowel that is significantly smaller than the ID of the hole.
8. Verify the chuck speed is appropriate for the diameter and material you are working on.
9. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. If you don't believe me, do a google image search for "lathe accident" and you will see why. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry, no headphones. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.
10. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected.
The quill in the tailstock is not captive. If you crank the feed too much, it WILL disengage from the feedscrew, possibly screwing up your work. Be cautious of this. If you can see the keyway machined in the top of the quill, it's starting to extend too far. Stop your work, retract the quill, and reposition the tailstock closer to the work. This is a design flaw, not a failure of the equipment. We will (eventually) take steps to ensure the quill is captive, probably by machining a groove in the bottom of the quill and adding a set screw, as is standard on many lathes.
Add a chip pan below the lathe to catch aluminum (and only aluminum, do not cross-contaminate!) for recovery and recycling in the foundry.